Transplanting of a Blue Spruce
RE: Moving of blue spruce clip this post email this post what is this?see most clipped and recent clippings
Here you go, make sure you are up to the challenge.
Before Transplanting — Root Pruning Water and nutrients are absorbed by tree roots, but the large roots nearest the tree trunk absorb very little. Tiny feeder roots that extend well beyond the tree perform most of that function. Root pruning stimulates small new feeder roots nearer the trunk. These new roots will be dug up as part of the root ball for transplanting. Root pruning is a familiar practice for bonsai growers. It is also essential when transplanting mature plants.
Root System: A tree's roots extend well beyond the drip line. Only about 25% of the root system will be transplanted. A tree or shrub to be transplanted in fall should be root pruned in the spring before new buds appear. Plants to be transplanted in spring should be root pruned the previous fall after they become dormant. Follow these steps:
1. Water the soil the day before pruning. This softens the ground for digging and helps reduce stress to plant roots. It also helps keep the soil attached to the roots.
2. Wrap or tie the lower branches up to protect them and keep them out of your way while digging.
3. Mark the area of the zone to be pruned. (Remember, a 10-12" diameter of root ball for every 1" of trunk diameter.)
4. Begin cutting a trench, using a flat spade with the face turned away from the plant. A sharp edge makes a cleaner cut that will make digging easier. If you encounter large roots, cut them with loppers.
5. Continue digging the trench, cutting roots as you go, down about 24", to reach as many lateral roots as possible. While digging, separate topsoil from subsoil to return to the trench after pruning.
6. After trenching around the entire plant, the root pruning is complete. Do not dig underneath the plant. Replace the subsoil and then the topsoil.
7. Water thoroughly and untie the branches. New feeder roots grow from the cut ends. You must include these new roots with the transplant (the whole idea of root pruning). At transplanting time, plan to cut the root ball 4-6" inches out from where the roots were pruned.
Transplanting: When transplanting time arrives, the basic steps are the same as root pruning — with a few key differences.
1. Water the soil the day before to soften the ground, reduce stress to plant roots and help keep the root ball intact.
2. Dig the new planting hole and have it ready before the transplant. Dig the hole 2-3 times as wide as the root ball, but no deeper. Moisten the hole before installing the root ball to help reduce transplant shock.
3. Tie the lower branches up to protect them and keep them out of your way while digging.
4. Gently remove the topsoil from the top of the roots near the trunk and mark the area to be dug. In order to include newly-grown roots, mark 4-6" further out from the trench where the roots were pruned. Begin digging outside of this mark.
5. Standing inside the marked circle, begin digging with a flat spade, keeping the face turned away from the plant. Continue digging around the plant. Dig progressively deeper, shaping the root ball as you go. If you encounter large roots, cut them with loppers.
6. When you have cut around the plant down to the proper level to include the roots, begin digging underneath the root ball.
7. Before cutting the root ball completely, place a tarp or sheet of burlap into the hole beside the ball. Dig under the ball and cut any last remaining roots below. Tilt the root ball over onto the tarp for wrapping and moving. Always lift the plant from underneath, never by the trunk.
Roots must be kept moist or they will die. Any plant that cannot be installed in its new location immediately after digging should be kept in the shade and the roots kept moist. A tarp works well to move a transplant to another section of the lawn. If the plant is to be moved a further distance or stored for any length of time, use burlap. Burlap "breathes" and is porous, allowing the root ball to be watered while you are waiting for final planting. It also keeps the soil from falling from the roots. Water: Watering after transplanting is essential, but there's no exact formula for how much and when. Factors such as soil texture, temperature, winds and the size of the tree itself make water quantity a moving target. To prevent root rot, keep the roots moist but not soggy. If there is no natural rainfall, plan on a deep watering every 12-14 days. Do not plant a tree or shrub deeper in a new planting hole than it was originally. Planting too deeply creates a basin that can collect too much water. Evidence of root rot may not be visible for several years after planting and then it is too late to save the plant. If you're in doubt, plant so that the ball is a few inches above the surrounding soil level. After the Move: The hard work is done, it's time for a few finishing touches and a couple of reminders.
* Adding a 2-3" layer of mulch (no deeper) around the base of the new transplant will help retain moisture and moderate soil temperature which in turn will promote root growth. Keep the mulch pulled a couple of inches away from the trunk. Staking: Should not be necessary on a 4-5 ft. spruce. Do not fertilize a newly-transplanted tree or shrub. The stress to acclimate to a new site is enough, fertilizing will stimulate unwanted new growth.
Good luck, Dave
RE: Moving of blue spruce clip this post email this post what is this?see most clipped and recent clippings
RE: further thoughts . clip this post email this post what is this?see most clipped and recent clippings
RE: Moving of blue spruce clip this post email this post what is this?see most clipped and recent clippings Timing: two words: NOT NOW One addition to Dave's method: fill new planting hole with water at least twice the day before, and let drain. If it's going into a sunny spot, consider making temporary shade (if ignoring the first two words). KarinL
RE: Moving of blue spruce clip this post email this post what is this?see most clipped and recent clippings Just keep thinking Ken...your ideas are always good. I did a 6 ft. 'Hoopsii' move 3 years ago.... never again. If again it would have to be something special. Since he asked I though he should know what it entails to move a conifer this size. Not a piece of cake with the root ball being the real challenge to lift out of the hole and transport. I like the xmas tree idea. Dave
RE: Moving of blue spruce clip this post email this post what is this?see most clipped and recent clippings
RE: Moving of blue spruce clip this post email this post what is this?see most clipped and recent clippings
RE: Moving of blue spruce clip this post email this post what is this?see most clipped and recent clippings I'd like to thank you all for your excellent comments. The root pruning advice was very informative. I've heard of this technique but have never tried it before. I also appreciate ken's point of view. Probably if it were my blue spruce, I'd do as he suggests, simply buy a new one and be done with it. However, the elderly neighbor who asked for the help really likes his tree. I owe him a favor anyway so a few hours of labor might be worth it. Thanks again everyone! Regards, Dave
Before Transplanting — Root Pruning Water and nutrients are absorbed by tree roots, but the large roots nearest the tree trunk absorb very little. Tiny feeder roots that extend well beyond the tree perform most of that function. Root pruning stimulates small new feeder roots nearer the trunk. These new roots will be dug up as part of the root ball for transplanting. Root pruning is a familiar practice for bonsai growers. It is also essential when transplanting mature plants.
Root System: A tree's roots extend well beyond the drip line. Only about 25% of the root system will be transplanted. A tree or shrub to be transplanted in fall should be root pruned in the spring before new buds appear. Plants to be transplanted in spring should be root pruned the previous fall after they become dormant. Follow these steps:
1. Water the soil the day before pruning. This softens the ground for digging and helps reduce stress to plant roots. It also helps keep the soil attached to the roots.
2. Wrap or tie the lower branches up to protect them and keep them out of your way while digging.
3. Mark the area of the zone to be pruned. (Remember, a 10-12" diameter of root ball for every 1" of trunk diameter.)
4. Begin cutting a trench, using a flat spade with the face turned away from the plant. A sharp edge makes a cleaner cut that will make digging easier. If you encounter large roots, cut them with loppers.
5. Continue digging the trench, cutting roots as you go, down about 24", to reach as many lateral roots as possible. While digging, separate topsoil from subsoil to return to the trench after pruning.
6. After trenching around the entire plant, the root pruning is complete. Do not dig underneath the plant. Replace the subsoil and then the topsoil.
7. Water thoroughly and untie the branches. New feeder roots grow from the cut ends. You must include these new roots with the transplant (the whole idea of root pruning). At transplanting time, plan to cut the root ball 4-6" inches out from where the roots were pruned.
Transplanting: When transplanting time arrives, the basic steps are the same as root pruning — with a few key differences.
1. Water the soil the day before to soften the ground, reduce stress to plant roots and help keep the root ball intact.
2. Dig the new planting hole and have it ready before the transplant. Dig the hole 2-3 times as wide as the root ball, but no deeper. Moisten the hole before installing the root ball to help reduce transplant shock.
3. Tie the lower branches up to protect them and keep them out of your way while digging.
4. Gently remove the topsoil from the top of the roots near the trunk and mark the area to be dug. In order to include newly-grown roots, mark 4-6" further out from the trench where the roots were pruned. Begin digging outside of this mark.
5. Standing inside the marked circle, begin digging with a flat spade, keeping the face turned away from the plant. Continue digging around the plant. Dig progressively deeper, shaping the root ball as you go. If you encounter large roots, cut them with loppers.
6. When you have cut around the plant down to the proper level to include the roots, begin digging underneath the root ball.
7. Before cutting the root ball completely, place a tarp or sheet of burlap into the hole beside the ball. Dig under the ball and cut any last remaining roots below. Tilt the root ball over onto the tarp for wrapping and moving. Always lift the plant from underneath, never by the trunk.
Roots must be kept moist or they will die. Any plant that cannot be installed in its new location immediately after digging should be kept in the shade and the roots kept moist. A tarp works well to move a transplant to another section of the lawn. If the plant is to be moved a further distance or stored for any length of time, use burlap. Burlap "breathes" and is porous, allowing the root ball to be watered while you are waiting for final planting. It also keeps the soil from falling from the roots. Water: Watering after transplanting is essential, but there's no exact formula for how much and when. Factors such as soil texture, temperature, winds and the size of the tree itself make water quantity a moving target. To prevent root rot, keep the roots moist but not soggy. If there is no natural rainfall, plan on a deep watering every 12-14 days. Do not plant a tree or shrub deeper in a new planting hole than it was originally. Planting too deeply creates a basin that can collect too much water. Evidence of root rot may not be visible for several years after planting and then it is too late to save the plant. If you're in doubt, plant so that the ball is a few inches above the surrounding soil level. After the Move: The hard work is done, it's time for a few finishing touches and a couple of reminders.
* Adding a 2-3" layer of mulch (no deeper) around the base of the new transplant will help retain moisture and moderate soil temperature which in turn will promote root growth. Keep the mulch pulled a couple of inches away from the trunk. Staking: Should not be necessary on a 4-5 ft. spruce. Do not fertilize a newly-transplanted tree or shrub. The stress to acclimate to a new site is enough, fertilizing will stimulate unwanted new growth.
Good luck, Dave
RE: Moving of blue spruce clip this post email this post what is this?see most clipped and recent clippings
- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Sun, Jul 6, 08 at 9:18
RE: further thoughts . clip this post email this post what is this?see most clipped and recent clippings
- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Sun, Jul 6, 08 at 13:53
RE: Moving of blue spruce clip this post email this post what is this?see most clipped and recent clippings Timing: two words: NOT NOW One addition to Dave's method: fill new planting hole with water at least twice the day before, and let drain. If it's going into a sunny spot, consider making temporary shade (if ignoring the first two words). KarinL
RE: Moving of blue spruce clip this post email this post what is this?see most clipped and recent clippings Just keep thinking Ken...your ideas are always good. I did a 6 ft. 'Hoopsii' move 3 years ago.... never again. If again it would have to be something special. Since he asked I though he should know what it entails to move a conifer this size. Not a piece of cake with the root ball being the real challenge to lift out of the hole and transport. I like the xmas tree idea. Dave
RE: Moving of blue spruce clip this post email this post what is this?see most clipped and recent clippings
- Posted by wisconsitom 4/5 WI (My Page) on Sun, Jul 6, 08 at 18:18
RE: Moving of blue spruce clip this post email this post what is this?see most clipped and recent clippings
- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Mon, Jul 7, 08 at 8:05
RE: Moving of blue spruce clip this post email this post what is this?see most clipped and recent clippings I'd like to thank you all for your excellent comments. The root pruning advice was very informative. I've heard of this technique but have never tried it before. I also appreciate ken's point of view. Probably if it were my blue spruce, I'd do as he suggests, simply buy a new one and be done with it. However, the elderly neighbor who asked for the help really likes his tree. I owe him a favor anyway so a few hours of labor might be worth it. Thanks again everyone! Regards, Dave